Harper's Bazaar Srbija

Maria Alexandrova: Modna revolucija

Ukoliko vešto kombinujemo animal print doživećemo ga kao nešto novo, kao jednu vrstu reprezentacije predatora.

Jakna i pantalone Alexander McQueen
Top Tom Ford
Cipele Balmain

Dolazak godine tigra u kineskom kalendaru inspiriše sve učesnike modne industrije. Fotograf Amer Mohamad sa svojim timom, koji je snimio digitalnu naslovnicu ovog izdanja nudi svoju viziju savremene mačke kroz seriju neobičnih look-ova.

Jakna, suknja i top Dolce and Gabanna
Cipele Versace

Tigrove pruge su glavni trend godine, ali da li je vredno fokusirati se samo na to kada možete kombinovati različite vrste printova, različite stilove i oblike u ime lepote i ličnog izražavanja. Ukoliko vešto kombinujemo animal print doživećemo ga kao nešto novo, kao jednu vrstu reprezentacije predatora. U našem slučaju ta neobična reprezentacija rezultirala je bojenjem kose u tigrove pruge i leopardove šare.

Ova igra podseća na “Mi smo jedne krvi, ti i ja” iz knjige o džungli Joseph-a Rudyard-a Kipling-a. Takođe, i savremene priče Donna-e Haraway, teoretičatke roda, međuljudskih odnosa i tehnologija o simbiontima, drugim živim bićima koja žive u simbiozi sa čovekom dajući mu nove sposobnosti i osobine (preuzeto iz filma “Pripovedanje priča ze zemaljski opstanak”).

Suknja i top Dolce and Gabanna
Cipele Versace

Na vama je da izaberete koji stepen printa želite da primenite u svojoj kombinaciji: od malih detalja na cipelama, do potpune transformacije od glave do pete. Jednobojne pruge na svim segmentima look-a, uključujući i kosu, stvoriće utisak neobičnog gracioznog antropomorfnog bića, koji je sličan digitalnom avataru koji možemo videti u igricama. Takođe, možete se uhvatiti u koštac sa pank stilom, tigar i leopard print kombinujte zajedno, svelte boje različiti oblici i teksture.

Protestni duh pankera pretvara se u fitilj neumornog istraživača. Korišćenje mačjih printova u večernjim kombinacijama može biti neobično iskustvo. Šta se dešava ukoliko čizme ili frizure sa motivima mačaka ne podržavaju ulogu predatora u toj modnoj priči, već pretvaraju domaćicu u fantastičnog virtuelnog lika koji odlazi van mreže.

Šešir Lia Gureva @liagureeva
Haljina Zara

Ona je privlačna i izvanredna, ali je izvan objektivizacije i rodne hijerarhije. To je slučaj kada vam “biti drugačiji” daje snagu da budete ono što jeste. Treba i naglasiti činjenicu da se mačji print odlično slaže sa geometrijskim šarama. Sasvim je moguće da će se ove godine uočiti novi trend  – zamena dualizma na relaciji predator – plen a koji takođe ima za cilj isprobavanje novih osobina drugih stvorenja bez hijerarhijskih postavki, ali iz radoznalosti i u formi igre. Svaka utakmica, sasvim sigurno, ima svoj deo igre. Hajde tu igriu i da nastavimo!

Jakna Alexander McQueen

English here:

The advent of the Year of the Tiger in the Chinese calendar inspires all participants in the fashion industry. The team of photographer Amer Mohamad, who shot the digital cover of this issue, offers their vision of cat prints in a series of unusual looks. Tiger stripes are the main trend of the year, but is it worth focusing only on it when you can combine different types of prints, different styles and shapes in the name of beauty and self-expression?

Animal print in a look is more like playing an augmented person, trying on a new color for yourself, than flashy sexuality of the 90s, a representation of a predator. A bright and unusual manifestation of such a game is hair coloring in tiger stripes and leopard spots. It reminds of «We be of one blood, thou and I» from «The Jungle Book» by Joseph Rudyard Kipling. And also modern stories by Donna Haraway – the theorist of gender, interspecies relations and technologies – about symbionts, other living beings that live in symbiosis with a human person, endowing him with new abilities and features (from the film “Story Telling for Earthly Survival”).

Minđuše i ogrlica Saint Laurent 
Pantalone, jakna i blejzer Dolce and Gabbana

You can choose the degree of being a big cat: from small accessories and shoes to a total transformation from head to toe. Monochrome stripes on all parts of the look, including hair, will create the impression of an unusual graceful anthropomorphic creature, similar to a digital avatar from an online role-playing game. But you can go the way of combinations, entering into a dialogue with punk style: tiger and leopard prints together, bright colors, various shapes and textures. The protest spirit of punks turns into the fuse of a tireless experimenter.

Jakna Valentino
Top Saint Laurent
Pantalone The Row
Kaiš Tom Ford
Cipele Bottega Veneta

Using cat accents in evening looks can be an unusual experience. What if boots or a hairdo with stripes do not support the provocative role of a socialite-hunter, but transform the hostess into a fantasy character of virtual reality who goes offline? She is attractive and extraordinary, but she is outside of objectifications and gender hierarchies. This is the case when “being different” gives you the strength to be yourself. And it should be emphasised that cat prints go great with geometric patterns.

Minđiše i ogrlica Saint Laurent
Pantalone, jakna i blejzer Dolce and Gabbana

It is quite possible that this year a new trend will be observed – the replacement of the “predator-prey” dualism in the use of animal prints with the game of an augmented person who will try on new features of other creatures without hierarchical settings, but out of horizontal curiosity and in the form of a game. Every game, for sure, has its share of the game. Let’s save and continue.

Cipele Bottega Veneta
Pantalone i jakna Anastasia Dokuchaeva

Team:

Photography: Amer Mohamad @shootmeamer
Styling: Angelia Galiullina @angelia_gal
Style assistant: Olga Chubarova @chubarovaolga
Light assitant: Anna Kaganovich @anna_artlight
Hair: Mariyam Osmanova @mariyam_osmanova
Make-Up: MADO @mad.mado
Model: Maria Alexandrova @mur.maria_

Text by Natalia Drachinskaya, contemporary artist, art columnist.

Najnovije