EUNICE OLUIMIDE - Priroda i moda - Harper's Bazaar Srbija

Haljina Paul Catello

U intervjuu za Harper’s BAZAAR Srbija, Eunice Olumide, zvezda naše digital naslovnice govori o svojim počecima, društevno odgovornim angažmanima i modi.

Recite nam, kako je započela vaša manekenska karijera i koja je najvažnija lekcija koju ste naučili?

Odrasla sam u malom gradu Edinburgu u Škotskoj, Velikoj Britaniji. Uživala sam u detinjstvu koje sam provela u prirodi i baveći se sportom, a ne toliko u šminci i ostalim “ženskim stvarima”. Pela sam se po drveću, trenirala, igrala se, mnogo pešačila po selu, sve dok nisam ušla u tinejdžerske godine. Danas, kao odrasla žena pitam se, šta su zapravo “ženske stvari”? Sećam se kako sam hodala ulicom u nekoj staroj avijatorskoj jakni, bomberici i širokim teksas pantalonama, sa afro frizurom, i naravno, bez šminke. Startovala me je jedna skauting agencija i bila sam šokirana. Nisam čak bila ni svesna da je modeling pravi posao! To nisam shvatila ozbiljno, pa su me kontaktirali iz agencije još tri puta pre nego što sam pristala na rad. Bilo je to neverovatno, prvi put da sam doživela pozitivno iskustvo zasnovano na vlastitoj estetici. Dok sam odrastala, stvari su bile prilično teške za tamnopute ljude, a na svojoj koži sam osetila posledice fizičkog i psihičkog progona. Moda je pak promenila moj život nabolje. Pomogla mi je da se izborim sa mnogobrojnim nesigurnostima i traumatičnim iskustvima kroz koja sam prošla. Po prvi put sam se osećala kao čovek u svetu u kome su na mene gledali kao na “drugo”. To je toliko čudno jer, da ste me pitali da li bih želela da postanem model kada sam bila mala, odgovor bi bio ne! Htela sam da budem naučnica ili fudbalerka! Bavljenje modom je nešto što me je naučilo toliko mnogo o životu, pa čak i o tome šta znači “biti žena”; o društvu, klasnim podelama i na kraju, o životnoj sredini.

U poslednjih deset godina sam sebi postavljala izazove u oblasti održivog razvoja. Mnogo vremena sam provela radeći sa “Climate Revolution” i neverovatnim, zastrašujućim talentima poput Vivienne Westwood; organizujući i vodeći mnogobrojne izložbe u svojoj umetničkoj galeriji “Olumide Galleries” rame uz rame sa institucijama poput Centra za društvenu pravdu. Mnogo ljudi misli da moda nije važna, što nije istina jer ona dotiče apsolutno svakog pojedinca. Ona jeste sve, i kao i sve drugo, ona je takođe i mikrokosmos stvarnog života, sa svim njegovim širim socio-političkim i ekonomskim problemima.

Rano u svojoj karijeri sam bila odbačena jer nisam želela da ispeglam svoju kosu što je dovelo do toga da sagledam suštinske nejednakosti ovog sveta i načina na koji su Afrikanke prikazivane u medijima… Ali kao što rekoh, to nije slučaj samo sa modom.

Trenutno se nalazimo na pragu prihvatanja i ljubavi za sve. Zapravo mi se čini da je modna industrija pravi predvodnik u bavljenju ovim pitanjima, koja se i nje same tiču, što me čini veoma ponosnom.

Postala sam jedna od vodećih britanskih aktivistkinja za društvenu pravdu, organizujući revije poput “NGRGFW” za Britanski modni savet na Nedelji mode u Londonu kako bih ukazala na “Windrush Skandal” kada je preko 100 afričkih Karibljana ilegalno deportovano iz Ujedinjenog Kraljevstva. Takođe podržavam “Svetski dan Afrike” koji je već pronašao put do školskih klupa širom sveta, edukujući učitelje o tome zašto nas treba pustiti da nosimo svoju prirodno kovrdžavu kosu, nakon što je toliko dece iz škole izbacivano upravo zbog svoje frizure.

Srećna sam što sam u mogućnosti da koristim svoju platformu kako bih podržala ciljeve do kojih mi je neizmerno stalo i u koje verujem. Bliži nam se “COP26”, okupljanje svih svetskih lidera kako bi se raspravljalo o životnoj sredini, klimatskim promenama i održivom razvoju.

Samo što sam završila sa snimanjem jednog sjajnog filma, u saradnji sa “Picture Zero”, a upravo radim sa “Olivia Firths Eco Age”. Moda je jedna vrlo svestrana industrija, puna strasti, estetskog sjaja i genijalnosti. Mislim da je najvažnija lekcija koju sam naučila o životu ta da se uvek radi o pravom tajmingu. Čini se kao da su naša boja kože i godište, kada sam bila mlada, bili važni, ali danas smo te granice srušili, pa smo sada svi prihvaćeni. Stoga, šta god radili, volite i verujte u sebe, ne dozvolite da posustanete.

Govorim o mnogim mehanizmima suočavanja u svojoj knjizi “How to get into Fashion” koja se bavi borbom protiv eksploatacije, kao i reprezentacijom modela i njihovih prava u Ujedinjenom Kraljevstvu. Morate biti nepokolebljivi, jer vi ste jedinstveni, neponovljivi, baš kao vlastiti otisak prsta, unikat na celom svetu.

Haljina Birger Christensen

Šta je vaš omiljeni deo bavljenja modelingom?

Obožavam da hodam po pisti i učestvujem na revijama. Snimanja su neverovatni jer na neki način traju duže, ali ima i nečeg dubokog u svem tom uloženom radu kako bi se organizovala modna revija. Tu je to nekakvo zujanje, elektricitet u vazduhu, modeli, kreatori, svi zajedno dajući svoj maksimum kako bi magija zaživela.

Kako uspevate da uskladite svoj posao sa putovanjima i privatnim životom?

To je sjajno pitanje! Rukovođenje vremenom je od izrazitog značaja, i moram priznati da svako veče isključujem svoj telefon kako bih neometano provela vreme sa svojom porodicom, prijateljima ili sa sobom. Vrlo je važno odvojiti vreme za sebe. Nikada to ne treba prepustiti slučaju. Treba dobro organizovati svoje vreme kako bi bili sigurni da ćete imati mesta za odmor i oporavak.

Ljudi se često plaše da govore o nesavršenostima. Koja je vaša najveća mana?

Smatram da je moja najveća mana “reagovanje”. Uvek je bolje usporiti i dati sebi vremena pre nego što se odgovori nego dozvoliti da vas povuku emocije, čak i onda kada ste u pravu. Kritičko mišljenje je od velike važnosti. Svet vas neće uvek razumeti, a ako dopustite sebi da budete uvučeni u prepirku, to vam često može naškoditi. Boli me nepravda, te kada je uočim, uvek pokušavam da je ispravim. Trebalo mi je mnogo vremena da bih shvatila da sama ne mogu spasiti svet, ali znate šta? To je sasvim u redu, jer nisam jedina. Mnogo je ljudi vođenih istom misijom.

Šta je tajna vašeg uspeha?

U mojoj knjizi “How To Get Into Fashion” nalazi se nekoliko poglavlja koja govore o tome kako izaći na kraj sa odbijanjem ali i o tome kako sebi postaviti ciljeve i razumeti šta za vas znači uspeh. Dakle, za mene, kada sam bila mlada i imala 15 godina, odlučila sam da će to biti učešće na Londonskoj nedelji mode i pojaviti se u “Vogue”. Jednom kada sam te ciljeve ostvarila, osećala sam se uspešno, a sve u čemu sam nalazila uspeh nakon toga izgledalo je kao bonus. Sagledati vlastite ideje o uspehu jeste imperativ, jer, ako dozvolite da vas svet sam definiše, to često može odvesti u ekstreme i neostvarena očekivanja, pa čak i probleme sa psihičkim zdravljem.

Haljina Natalie & Alana

Šta trenutno radite kako biste učinili svet boljim mestom za život?

Moj život je posvećen ne samo očuvanju životne sredine već i društvenoj pravdi i borbi protiv nejednakosti. Pokrovitelj sam organizacija poput “Graduate Fashion Week”, “CHAS” (koja brine o terminalno oboleloj deci), “Best Beginnings” (zajedno sa Kate Middleton), “FAD”, “The Well Foundation” (koja obezbeđuje čistu vodu sredinama zahvaćenim ratom), “AII” (koja pomaže ženama obolelim od raka da se vrate na posao), “World Afro Day”, “P2P” (koja pomaže izgradnju biblioteka i škola za decu), “ECO Age”, “Zero Waste Scotland” (koja podržava održivu i kružnu ekonomiju), “The Columbus Hospice” (koja pruža pomoć starijim građanima), “Fuel Poverty Action” (koja obezbeđuje grejanje tokom zime za starije), “Fashion Targets”, sa Alanom Car, Kate Moss i Naomi Campbell, i još mnogih drugih. Ovog meseca sam radila na nagrađenom blokbaster dokumentarcu “The Outsiders” zajedno sa talentima poput Amande Seals, u režiji Simona Fredricka. Uključujući i projekte na kojima radim u ovom periodu pred “COP26”, takođe sam se obučavala i za filmskog režisera kako bih sama mogla stvarati filmove koji će menjati svet. Osnovala sam i vlastitu firmu pod nazivom “Orun Films”. Osvojila sam mesto na projektu “Women in Television and Film”, a moj film je dobio nagradu za najbolji dokumentarac, na šta sam izrazito ponosna.

Verujem da moda, umetnost i film imaju posebnu sposobnost da sagledaju svet koji nas okružuje i pomognu nam da sebe i jedni druge bolje razumemo. Takođe, trenutno radim na knjizi za “UNESECO”, vodim simpozijum za Britanski muzej i za Nacionalni muzej Škotske. Uskoro će se pojaviti i moj “TedTalk”.

Ko je vaš omiljeni modni kreator?

O bože, to je tako teško pitanje! Ima ih toliko mnogo, a svi mi se dopadaju iz različitih razloga. Od Olivera Roustinga, do Jeremy Scotta, Virgil Abloh, April Walker, pa do klasika poput Christopher Kane-a, Karl Lagerfelda i Donatelle Versace. Zapravo, najviše naginjem da nosim i podržim malo poznate kreatore koji se tek probijaju na tržište, ali i brendove koji podržavaju kružnu i održivu ekonomiju kao što je “By Rotation” koji su nam obezbedili čarape za ovo snimanje.

Šta planirate da postignete u narednih nekoliko godina?

Volela bih da nastavim da se bavim modelingom ali i snimanjem filmova koji bi menjali način na koji sagledavamo svet. Toliko sam ponosna na svoju profesiju sa svim svojim bojama, teksturama, radošću i boli. Iskreno verujem da umetnost može da menja živote.

Takođe bih volela da napišem još nekoliko knjiga i vremenom osnujem vlastiti mali modni brend, samo za stvari koje volim. Oh, i da ne zaboravim, volela bih da postanem mama! Videćemo šta će mi muž na to reći!

U to ime!

Haljina Simone Rocha / Cipele Eunique Wear

ENGLISH HERE

Tell us, how did your modelling career begin? And what has been the most valuable lesson that you have learned?

I grew up in the small town of Edinburgh which is in Scotland, UK. I absolutely adored my childhood and was very into sports and nature, not really make up or girly things. I was climbing trees, trekking and playing sports, games and hiking in the country until I was well into my teens. Now as an adult I think but what truly are girly things? I remember walking down the street and wearing some old airforce, a bomber, some baggy jeans, my afro out and of course no make up. I was scouted by an agency and I was so shocked. I didn’t even realise it was a real job. I didn’t take it seriously, I actually had to be scouted three more times before I tried. It was incredible it was the first time in my life that I had really received a positive experience base on my aesthetics. At the time I grew up things were very difficult for people of colour and I suffered a lot of physical and mental persecution. Fashion actually changed my life for the better. It helped me deal with the many insecurities, and traumatic experinces I had suffered. It made me feel like a human being in a world where I was seen as “other”. It so strange because if you had asked me did I want to be a model as a girl I would have said no, I want to be a rocket scientist or a footballer! It was something that I did that actually taught me so much about life and even being a woman, about society, class and eventually the environment.

As much as I have been a champion for the industry I often also challenge it with my work in sustainability over the last decade. I spent a lot of time working with Climate Revolution and incredible formidable talents such as Vivienne Westwood and have produced and curated a number of prominent exhibitions through my art gallery Olumide Galleries, alongside institutions such as the centre for social justice. Lots of people think fashion is not important, this is untrue fashion touches each and every single one of our lives. It is everything, and like anything else a microcosm of real life and the wider social, political and economic issues. Early in my career I was dropped for refusing to relax my hair, that made me fundamentally aware of inequality in the wider world of how African women are represented in the media, but as I said this is not something unique to fashion, we are at the forefront of acceptance and love for all. I actually feel that the industry is a leader in diversity and addressing its own issues which makes me feel so proud. I went on to become one of the UK’s leading campaigners for social justice producing catwalk shows such as NGRGFW for The British Fashion Council at London fashion week to highlight the Windrush Scandal where nearly 100 Afro-Carribeans were illegally deported form he UK and am a patron for Wold Afro Day which goes into schools across the world educating teachers on why we need to be able to wear out hair naturally and in protective styles after so many children were expelled form school world wide for doing this. I am so lucky to be able to use my platform to support the causes that I care about and believe in. At the moment we are leading up to COP26 a gathering off all the world leader to discuss the environment, climate change and sustainability. I have just finished shooting an amazing film with Picture Zero and I am currently working with Olivia Firths Eco Age. It is such a multifaceted industry, full of passion, aethetic brilliance and ingenuity. I think the most valuable lesson I have learned about life is everything is about timing! It was like when I was young and first started our race and age were a thing but now we have broken down those barriers and finally all are accepted, so no matter what you have to love and believe in yourself, don’t be put off. I have illustrated a variety of coping mechanisms in my book ‘How to get into Fashion’ which is all about destroying exploitation after working with the trade organisation Equity to represent models and their rights in the UK. You have to be resilient, you have slay but in your own lane, there is only one you, and you are magnificent, just like our finger prints, no to the same on the entire earth.

Haljina Alberta Feretti

What is one of your favorite parts of modeling?

I absolutely love walking and doing shows, shoots are amazing as they somehow last longer but there is something so profound about all of the work that goes into producing a fashion show, its the buzz, the electricity in the air, the models, the designers, everyone open heartedly doing their best to create pure magic. It is beyond beautiful.

How do you juggle your job with travel and personal life?

Hahah that is a great question. Time management is crucial and I must admit I always every single nigh switch my phone to aeroplane mode so I can have uninterrupted time with family, friends and even just for myself. Its so important to schedule “me” time. Never leave it ti chance, plan your time well to ensure you have the opporntunity to rest and recover.

People are often afraid to talk about imperfections. What’s your biggest one?

I think my biggest imperfection is “reacting”. It is always better to set the pace or take time to respond rather being led by emotion, even if you are right. Critical thinking is essential. The world won’t always understand you and if you allow yourself to be lead into he wrong argument it can often do you a disservice. I am so passionate when something’s wrong I always want to set it right. It took my whole life to realise that I might not be to save the whole world, and do you know what? That’s ok. There’s not just me. There are many people of the same mission.

What would you say is the secret to your success?

Again in my book “How To Get Into Fashion” I have several chapters on dealing with rejection, as well as setting goals, and defining what your idea of success means to you. So for me when I was younger I decided at the age of 15 I wanted to be in a national campaign, walk at LFW and be in Vogue, and once I had achieved those things I felt successful which basically meant everything else that I achieved was almost like a bonus. Setting your own idea of success is imperative since if you let the world define you it can often be extreme and unobtainable and lead to mental health issues.

Haljina ADBSF za Georgia Hardinge

What are you currently doing to make the world a better place?

My life is dedicated to not only preserving the environment but to social justice and stamping out inequality. I am a patron for Graduate Fashion Week, CHAS (who look after terminally ill children), Best Beginnings (alongside Kate Middleton), FAD, The Well Foundation (providing clean drinking water in war torn regions, AII (who get women who have had a career break back into work), World Afro Day, P2P (who build schools and library’s for children), ECO Age, Zero Waste Scotland (who support sustainability and the circle economy), The Columbus Hospice (who look after our elderly), Fuel Poverty Action (who provide heat to the elderly in winter), Fashion Targets, with Alan Car, Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell and many more. This month I have just finished the blockbuster award winning documentary called The Outsiders alongside incredible talents such as Amanda Seals, directed by Simon Fredrick. Along with my other work I am doing ahead of COP26 I have also just trained as a film director in order for me to make films which can change the world. I have set up my own company called Orun Films. I won a place on the highly competitive scheme called Women in Television and Film and my film won “Best Documentary” which I am extremely proud of. I believe fashion, art and film have a unique ability to deconstruct the world around us and help us all understand one another. I am also currently working on a book for UNESECO, curating a symposium for the British Museum and the National Museum of Scotland and completed a TED Talk out soon.

Who is your favorite fashion designer and why?

Oh goodness that is such a hard question there are so so many but all for different reasons, from Oliver Rousting, to Jeremy Scott, Virgil Abloh, April walker to classic’s such as Christopher Kane, Karl Lagerfeld and Donatella Versace. I actually tend to wear and primarily support a lot of unknown, new emerging talent as well as brands who support the circle economy such as By Rotation who provided our stockists for this shoot.

What are you looking to achieve in the next couple of years?

I would like to continue modelling and making films that change the way we see the world. I am so proud of my industry, the colour, the texture, the joy and the pain and I sincerely believe art can transform lives. I would also like to write a few more books and eventually have my own small fashion range just of things I love. Oh and don’t let me forget, I would like to become a mummy, well see what my husband has to say! Amen to that.