Između industrijske preciznosti i intimnosti nakita, između sirove forme i dragocenosti zlata i dijamanata, nastala je The Coupling Collection, najnovija i jedna od najupečatljivijih linija brenda GAUHAR. Iza nje stoji Gaga Murray, osnivačica i kreativna direktorka brenda, čiji se rad oslanja na spoj različitih kultura, ličnih sećanja i intuitivnog pristupa dizajnu. Odrasla između Kazahstana i Dubaija, a danas sa sedištem u Majamiju, Gaga u svoje kreacije unosi globalnu i međukulturalnu perspektivu, istražujući granicu između savremenog luksuza i lične simbolike.

U razgovoru za Harper’s BAZAAR Srbija, ona otkriva kako je jedan utilitarni industrijski predmet postao polazište za kolekciju nakita sa duboko ličnim značenjem, kako je balansirala između skulpturalnosti i svakodnevne nosivosti i zašto veruje da upravo osoba koja nosi komad na kraju dovršava njegovu priču.

Ideja za „The Coupling Collection” nastala je tokom posete jednom industrijskom postrojenju u Singapuru. Šta je bilo toliko posebno u tim predmetima, nastalim prvenstveno iz potrebe za funkcionalnošću, a ne estetikom, da su privukli vašu pažnju?

Gaga Murray: Fascinirala me je činjenica da su ti predmeti nastali isključivo da bi ispunili određenu funkciju, a da su istovremeno posedovali neočekivanu skulpturalnu lepotu. Preciznost, snaga i ritam ponavljanja njihovih mehaničkih formi odmah su mi privukli pažnju, naročito spojnice, navoji i heksagonalni detalji. Počela sam da razmišljam o tome kako bi se ti utilitarni elementi mogli transformisati u nešto dragoceno i duboko lično. Upravo je taj kontrast postao polazna tačka kolekcije.

Sam naziv „Coupling” nosi snažnu simboliku. U inženjerstvu označava element koji povezuje dva odvojena dela. Kako ste tu ideju povezivanja pretočili u priču o ljudskim odnosima, bliskosti i povezanosti?

Gaga Murray: Spojnica postoji da bi povezala dva odvojena elementa i omogućila im da funkcionišu kao celina. Ta ideja mi je bila neverovatno ljudska. Naše živote oblikuju veze koje stvaramo, sa partnerom, članom porodice, prijateljem, pa čak i sa nekim mestom ili uspomenom. Želela sam da kolekcija govori upravo o tim vezama – o ljudima koji nas osnažuju, drže na okupu i postaju deo naše priče. Industrijsko značenje dalo je kolekciji strukturu, ali joj je emotivno značenje udahnulo dušu.

Vaša kolekcija pretvara industrijske elemente, poput cevnih spojnica i mehaničkih detalja, u fini nakit. Šta vas najviše inspiriše u kontrastu između sirove industrijske estetike i prefinjenosti plemenitih materijala?

Gaga Murray: Volim kontraste jer stvaraju tenziju i čine dizajn upečatljivim. Industrijski elementi su snažni, praktični i često neprimećeni, dok je fini nakit dragocen, intiman i namenjen pažljivom posmatranju. Kada se ta dva sveta susretnu, nastaje nešto neočekivano. Navoj izrađen od poliranog zlata ili heksagonalni element ukrašen dijamantima odjednom postaje elegantan i poželjan, a ipak zadržava svoju prvobitnu snagu i karakter. Upravo me ta transformacija najviše uzbuđuje.

Koji su ključni elementi dizajna koji definišu „The Coupling Collection” i kako ste odlučili koje industrijske detalje da zadržite, a koje da reinterpretirate?

Gaga Murray: Kolekciju definišu forme navoja, heksagonalne siluete, konektori inspirisani spojnicama, kao i kontrast poliranih i mat površina. Zadržala sam detalje koji originalne predmete čine odmah prepoznatljivim – geometriju, simetriju i osećaj konstrukcije, ali sam njihove proporcije prilagodila tako da budu udobne i luksuzne kada se nose na telu. Neki elementi ostali su namerno snažni i naglašeni, dok su drugi omekšani, izduženi ili obogaćeni dijamantima i dragim kamenjem. Cilj nikada nije bio da doslovno reprodukujemo industrijski hardver, već da sačuvamo njegov karakter i prevedemo ga na jezik finog nakita.

Kolekcija je izrađena od 14-karatnog zlata i ukrašena dijamantima, kroz prepoznatljive heksagonalne postavke i pavé detalje. Kako ste uskladili skulpturalnost komada sa idejom da je reč o nakitu namenjenom svakodnevnom nošenju?

Gaga Murray: Nosivost je uvek u središtu mog procesa dizajniranja. Čak i kada je komad vizuelno snažan, mora da deluje prirodno i udobno na telu. Pažljivo sam promišljala težinu, proporcije, unutrašnju konstrukciju i način na koji se svaki komad pomera. Pavé detalji i heksagonalne postavke unose prefinjenost, a da pritom ne narušavaju skulpturalnu formu. Želela sam da svaki komad bude upečatljiv, ali i da postane deo svakodnevnog života osobe koja ga nosi – nešto čemu će se često vraćati i što će vremenom povezivati sa sopstvenim uspomenama.

Koje trendove i tendencije u svetu nakita vidite kao ključne za predstojeću jesenju sezonu?

Gaga Murray: Kako ulazimo u novu jesenju sezonu, verujem da će nakit postati smeliji i izražajniji. Očekujem skulpturalne forme, kombinovanje različitih metala, bogate i intenzivne boje, kao i nakit sa naglašenim hardverskim detaljima i industrijskim karakterom. Ljudi danas žele komade koji su jedinstveni, koji privlače pažnju i pokreću razgovor, a da istovremeno ostanu nosivi i bezvremeni.

Da li smatrate da izlazimo iz ere diskretnog, „jedva primetnog” nakita ili će se minimalizam uvek vraćati kao svojevrsna protivteža izražajnijim trendovima? Šta savremeni luksuz danas podrazumeva u svetu nakita?

Gaga Murray: Smatram da zaista izlazimo iz ere jedva primetnog nakita. Ljudi su ponovo spremni da kroz nakit izraze sebe, kroz snažnije forme, veće dimenzije i komade koji imaju karakter. Ipak, minimalizam će se uvek vraćati kao ravnoteža izražajnijim trendovima. U okviru Coupling kolekcije dizajniram i nežnije, suptilnije komade za one koji preferiraju nakit koji nije toliko upečatljiv. Ovi modeli i dalje nose prepoznatljive elemente Coupling hardvera, ali su interpretirani na suptilniji i sofisticiraniji način.

Za mene, savremeni luksuz nije samo pitanje cene ili praćenja trendova, on se ogleda u promišljenom dizajnu, vrhunskom zanatstvu i nakitu koji ima lično značenje. To je nakit koji u osobi koja ga nosi budi emociju i samopouzdanje i predstavlja izraz njene individualnosti.

Kako pronaći balans između aktuelnih trendova i odabira komada koji odražavaju karakter i individualni stil osobe koja ih nosi?

Gaga Murray: Verujem da se prava ravnoteža postiže tako što trendove posmatramo kao inspiraciju, a ne kao nešto što treba da definiše naš stil. Birajte komade koji vas prirodno privlače i koji odražavaju vašu ličnost, a aktuelne trendove uvodite kroz način na koji ih stilizujete – slojevitošću, kombinovanjem različitih komada ili spajanjem različitih metala.

Nakit treba da bude ličan i da postane izraz vašeg identiteta, da privlači pažnju, a da vas pritom ne nadjača, da svaki put kada ga nosite ima trajno značenje i da vam pruža snažan osećaj samopouzdanja i osnaženosti, dugo nakon što određeni trend prođe.

Vaš rad često istražuje odnos između nakita, sećanja i emocija. Na koji način „The Coupling Collection” nastavlja taj lični pristup pripovedanju kroz dizajn?

Gaga Murray: Verujem da nakit postaje najmoćniji kada nosi priču. The Coupling Collection počinje mojim ličnim sećanjem na otkrivanje ovih industrijskih formi u Singapuru, ali se njena priča nastavlja kroz iskustva ljudi koji je nose. Jedan komad može obeležiti odnos, lični uspeh, početak novog poglavlja ili jednostavno trenutak u kojem osoba odluči da oda priznanje sebi.

Vremenom, nakit postaje neraskidivo povezan s tim sećanjem i počinje da živi život izvan prvobitne ideje dizajna.

Kada neko nosi komad iz „The Coupling Collection”, šta biste voleli da mu on predstavlja – isključivo estetski izbor ili lični simbol povezanosti, snage i pripadanja?

Gaga Murray: Želim da dizajn najpre privuče pažnju, ali se nadam da će upravo značenje biti ono zbog čega će osoba poželeti da ga zadrži. Komad iz The Coupling Collection može se nositi jednostavno, zato što je upečatljiv, lep i drugačiji, ali može postati i duboko ličan simbol.

Volela bih da ga svako ko ga nosi doživi kao podsetnik na povezanost sa drugom osobom, značajnim trenutkom ili sopstvenom snagom. Na kraju, upravo osoba koja ga nosi dovršava njegovu priču.

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Glavni i odgovorni urednik: Petar Janošević

Tim:
Fotografija: Dina Zhulii
Stilista: Anna Khitrina
Model: Gaga Murray
Šminka i frizura: Kateryna Cherkasenko
Razgovarala: Tijana Mišović

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English here:

Gaga Murray: Shaping Emotion

Between architecture, memory and craftsmanship, Gaga Murray creates pieces that transcend trends and become part of personal history

Between industrial precision and the intimacy of jewellery, between raw form and the preciousness of gold and diamonds, The Coupling Collection emerged as the latest and one of the most striking lines from GAUHAR. Behind it is Gaga Murray, the brand’s founder and creative director, whose work draws on a blend of different cultures, personal memories and an intuitive approach to design. Raised between Kazakhstan and Dubai and now based in Miami, Gaga brings a global and cross-cultural perspective to her creations, exploring the boundary between contemporary luxury and personal symbolism.

In conversation with Harper’s BAZAAR, she reveals how a utilitarian industrial object became the starting point for a jewellery collection with deeply personal meaning, how she balanced sculptural qualities with everyday wearability, and why she believes that the person wearing a piece ultimately completes its story.

The idea for “The Coupling Collection” came to you during a visit to an industrial facility in Singapore. What was it about these objects, created primarily out of a need for functionality rather than aesthetics, that caught your attention?

Gaga Murray: I was fascinated by the fact that these objects were created solely to fulfil a specific function, while at the same time possessing an unexpected sculptural beauty. The precision, strength and rhythm created by the repetition of their mechanical forms immediately caught my attention, particularly the couplings, threads and hexagonal details. I began thinking about how these utilitarian elements could be transformed into something precious and deeply personal. That contrast became the starting point for the collection.

The name “Coupling” itself carries powerful symbolism. In engineering, it refers to an element that connects two separate parts. How did you translate this idea of connection into a story about human relationships, intimacy and bonds?

Gaga Murray: A coupling exists to connect two separate elements and allow them to function as a whole. I found that idea incredibly human. Our lives are shaped by the connections we create—with a partner, a family member, a friend, and even with a place or a memory. I wanted the collection to speak precisely about those connections—about the people who empower us, hold us together and become part of our story. Its industrial meaning gave the collection structure, but its emotional meaning gave it a soul.

Your collection transforms industrial elements, such as pipe couplings and mechanical details, into fine jewellery. What inspires you most about the contrast between raw industrial aesthetics and the refinement of precious materials?

Gaga Murray: I love contrasts because they create tension and make a design striking. Industrial elements are strong, practical and often overlooked, while fine jewellery is precious, intimate and intended to be carefully observed. When these two worlds meet, something unexpected happens. A thread crafted from polished gold or a hexagonal element adorned with diamonds suddenly becomes elegant and desirable, while still retaining its original strength and character. That transformation is what excites me most.

What are the key design elements that define “The Coupling Collection”, and how did you decide which industrial details to retain and which to reinterpret?

Gaga Murray: The collection is defined by threaded forms, hexagonal silhouettes, connectors inspired by couplings, as well as the contrast between polished and matte surfaces. I retained the details that make the original objects immediately recognisable—the geometry, symmetry and sense of construction—but adapted their proportions so that they would feel comfortable and luxurious when worn on the body. Some elements remain intentionally strong and pronounced, while others have been softened, elongated or enhanced with diamonds and gemstones. The goal was never to reproduce industrial hardware literally, but to preserve its character and translate it into the language of fine jewellery.

The collection is crafted in 14-karat gold and adorned with diamonds, featuring distinctive hexagonal settings and pavé details. How did you balance the sculptural quality of the pieces with the idea that they are intended for everyday wear?

Gaga Murray: Wearability is always at the centre of my design process. Even when a piece is visually powerful, it has to feel natural and comfortable on the body. I carefully considered weight, proportions, internal construction and the way each piece moves. The pavé details and hexagonal settings add refinement without compromising the sculptural form. I wanted every piece to be striking, but also to become part of the everyday life of the person wearing it—something they will return to often and that, over time, becomes connected to their own memories.

Which trends and developments in the world of jewellery do you see as key for the upcoming autumn season?

Gaga Murray: As we enter a new autumn season, I believe jewellery will become bolder and more expressive. I expect to see sculptural forms, combinations of different metals, rich and intense colours, as well as jewellery with pronounced hardware details and an industrial character. People today want pieces that are unique, that attract attention and spark conversation, while still being wearable and timeless.

Do you feel we are moving out of the era of discreet, “barely there” jewellery, or will minimalism always return as a counterbalance to more expressive trends? What does contemporary luxury mean in jewellery today?

Gaga Murray: I do think we are moving out of the era of barely-there jewellery. People are once again ready to express themselves through jewellery—through stronger forms, larger dimensions and pieces with character. At the same time, minimalism will always return as a counterbalance to more expressive trends. Within the Coupling collection, I also design softer, more subtle pieces for those who prefer jewellery that is less statement-making. These designs still feature recognisable elements of Coupling hardware, but they are interpreted in a more subtle and sophisticated way.

For me, contemporary luxury is not simply about price or following trends. It is reflected in thoughtful design, exceptional craftsmanship and jewellery that carries personal meaning. It is jewellery that evokes emotion and confidence in the person wearing it and serves as an expression of their individuality.

How can one find a balance between current trends and choosing pieces that reflect the character and individual style of the person wearing them?

Gaga Murray: I believe the right balance comes from viewing trends as inspiration rather than something that should define our style. Choose pieces that naturally draw you in and reflect your personality, and incorporate current trends through the way you style them—through layering, combining different pieces or mixing different metals.

Jewellery should be personal and become an expression of your identity. It should attract attention without overpowering you; every time you wear it, it should carry lasting meaning and give you a strong sense of confidence and empowerment, long after a particular trend has passed.

Your work often explores the relationship between jewellery, memory and emotion. In what way does “The Coupling Collection” continue this personal approach to storytelling through design?

Gaga Murray: I believe jewellery becomes most powerful when it carries a story. The Coupling Collection begins with my personal memory of discovering these industrial forms in Singapore, but its story continues through the experiences of the people who wear it. A piece can mark a relationship, a personal achievement, the beginning of a new chapter, or simply a moment when someone decides to honour themselves.

Over time, jewellery becomes inextricably linked to that memory and begins to live a life beyond the original idea behind the design.

When someone wears a piece from “The Coupling Collection”, what would you like it to represent for them—simply an aesthetic choice, or a personal symbol of connection, strength and belonging?

Gaga Murray: I want the design to attract attention first, but I hope that its meaning will ultimately be what makes someone want to keep it. A piece from The Coupling Collection can be worn simply because it is striking, beautiful and different, but it can also become a deeply personal symbol.

I would love for everyone who wears one of the pieces to experience it as a reminder of their connection to another person, a significant moment or their own strength. In the end, it is the person wearing it who completes its story.

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Editor-in-Chief: Petar Janošević

Team:
Photography: Dina Zhulii
Stylist: Anna Khitrina
Model: Gaga Murray
Makeup & Hair: Kateryna Cherkasenko
Interview by: Tijana Mišović