Prvog dana London Fashion Weeka, Paris Runway Official posetio je prezentaciju kolekcije Paul Costelloe za proleće/leto 2027, gde je kreativni direktor William Costelloe spojio preciznost i spontanost kroz opušteno krojenje, irske tekstile i izrazito nenametljiv pristup letnjem odevanju.
London Fashion Week započeo je lekcijom o tome kako tradicija može da ide napred, a da pritom ne izgubi sopstveni identitet. Paris Runway Official sastao se sa Williamom Costelloeom iza scene, gde smo razgovarali sa dizajnerom o tome kako se priprema za tako važan dan — prvi dan i prvu reviju London Fashion Weeka. Nakon toga, pažnja je bila u potpunosti usmerena na predstavljanje njegove nove kolekcije.
Za proleće/leto 2027, Paul Costelloe otvorio je sezonu kolekcijom koja je dizajnirana u Londonu i zasnovana na naizgled jednostavnoj ideji: lepa odeća ne mora da se trudi previše.
Pod kreativnim vođstvom Williama Costelloea, struktura se susrela sa mekoćom, krojenje je postalo opuštenije, a tradicija modne kuće Costelloe prevedena je u duh nove sezone.
Za Paris Runway Official, prisustvovanje prvom danu Fashion Weeka pružilo je rani pogled na kolekciju koja je, čini se, postavila pravi ton za sam London — grad koji je siguran u svoju istoriju, ali odbija da ostane u mestu.
Costelloeov način
Pre nego što je prvi izlazak modela u potpunosti ispričao priču kolekcije, predstavio ju je jedan prepoznatljiv simbol.
Prezentacija je otvorena lisicom modne kuće, omažom osnivaču Paulu Costelloeu, koja je oživljena kroz ručno crtanu animaciju Nicholasa Costelloea. Prožimajući materijale, zanat i nasleđe modne kuće, lisica je postala razigran uvod u kolekciju duboko povezanu sa porodicom i tradicijom izrade.
Nasleđe se ponovo pojavilo kroz posebno oblikovane zlatne dugmiće sa porodičnim grbom Costelloe i motom Cor Unum, Via Una — Jedno srce, jedan put.
To je fraza koja na pravi način opisuje ono što kuća naziva The Costelloe Way — posvećenost zanatstvu i kreativnosti, čak i onda kada sama odeća postaje sve opuštenija.
Za Williama, upravo je ta lakoća bila ključna.
„Želeo sam da ova kolekcija bude šik, nenametljiva i spontana. Dizajn i materijal treba da urade posao… lep komad odeće, sjajna torba, svilena marama koju nosite kako god želite. Bez pravila.“
I SS27 je uglavnom sledila upravo tu ideju.
Krojenje bez formalnosti
Krojenje je činilo osnovu kolekcije, ali ovo nije bilo krojenje koje treba da deluje strogo ili kruto.
Strukturisane bajkerske jakne, skraćene siluete i upečatljivi kaputi izrađeni od 100% italijanske teksturirane vune smenjivali su se sa predimenzioniranim jednorednim i dvorednim sakoima, zaobljenim reverima, naglašenim ramenima i namerno prenaglašenim proporcijama.
Jakne zakopčane visoko uz vrat kombinovane su sa lepršavim šortsevima sa bočnim faltama, dok su izdužene pantalone ublažavale arhitektonski karakter pojedinih silueta.
A onda je došao lan.
Prugasti lan iz Mageeja pojavio se na predimenzioniranim sakoima, usklađenim šortsevima i širokim pantalonama sa faltama, odmah unoseći lakoću u tradicionalno krojenje i čineći ga prikladnijim za visoko leto.
Upravo je taj kontrast — preciznost nasuprot lakoći — dao kolekciji njen ritam.
Oštre plavo-bele košulje dobile su predimenzionirane zaobljene manžetne, mašne i plisirane lanene forme, dok su pleteni komadi od finog pamuka, spuštenih ramena, u krem, teget i diskretnim prugama ponudili tišu interpretaciju letnjeg odevanja.
Paleta je ostala podjednako disciplinovana: teget, različite nijanse plave, krem, bela i nežni letnji neutralni tonovi.
Umesto oslanjanja na jarke boje, Costelloe je dopustio da proporcije, kroj i materijali privuku pažnju.
Povratak svilene marame
Jedan od najsvestranijih detalja SS27 ujedno je bio i jedan od najklasičnijih.
Svilene marame sa ručno oslikanim motivima Williama Costelloea pojavljivale su se kroz celu kolekciju, uokvirene upečatljivim bordurama i stilizovane bez očiglednih pravila.
Nosile su se kao marame na glavi. Ležerno su se vezivale oko vrata. Obmotavale su se oko ručki torbi.
Bio je to mali stilski detalj koji je preneo širi stav sezone: luksuz i dalje može da bude uglađen, a da pritom ne postane pretenciozan.
I aksesoari su sledili istu filozofiju.
Predimenzionirane clutch torbe, torbe od rafije i east-west modeli u tan i teget tonovima pratili su odevne kombinacije, dok su tanki dvostruki kaiševi davali definiciju inače fluidnim siluetama.
Ništa nije moralo glasno da privlači pažnju da bi bilo primećeno.
Irska nit koja se provlači kroz SS27
Kako se revija približavala finalu, Costelloe se još direktnije okrenuo irskom zanatstvu.
Tekstili kompanija Ferguson’s Irish Linen i Magee pojavili su se na lepršavim kombinezonima, skulpturalnim haljinama, voluminoznim šortsevima i letnjem krojenju, uz prepoznatljive cvetne detalje i teksturisane mešavine lana.
Za kolekciju nastalu u Londonu, modne kuće sa dubokim irskim korenima, ovaj izbor delovao je posebno značajno.
Nasleđe nije predstavljeno kao nostalgija. Ono je bilo prisutno u samoj tkanini… a zatim krojeno, oblikovano i stilizovano za savremeni trenutak.
Upravo bi ta razlika mogla da bude najzanimljiviji deo vizije koju William Costelloe postepeno razvija za ovu modnu kuću.
On ne mora da napusti kodove koji se povezuju sa Paulom Costelloeom kako bi stvorio nešto novo. Umesto toga, SS27 pokazuje da se evolucija može postići kroz proporcije, stilizovanje, materijale i stav.
Samouveren početak Londona
Prvog dana London Fashion Weeka, bilo je nečeg posebno prikladnog u tome što je sezonu otvorila kuća koja istovremeno razmišlja o nasleđu i o onome što dolazi.
Krojenje je ostalo precizno, ali je dobilo slobodu pokreta.
Zanatstvo je i dalje bilo od velikog značaja, ali nije delovalo pretenciozno.
Irski tekstili našli su se uz italijansku vunu. Tradicionalne košulje susrele su se sa predimenzioniranim proporcijama. Porodični grb pojavio se na zlatnim dugmićima, dok su svilene marame mogle da se nose na način koji sam nosilac poželi.
A kroz sve to provlačila se instrukcija Williama Costelloea za ovu sezonu:
Bez pravila.
Za Paris Runway Official, ovo je označilo početak još jednog London Fashion Weeka i kolekciju koja je, već prvog dana, pokazala da nenametljivost u odevanju ne znači odustajanje od zanatstva.
U Paul Costelloe kolekciji SS27 zastupljena je upravo suprotna ideja: kada su kroj, materijal i zanat dovoljno snažni, možda je upravo nenametljivost najveći oblik luksuza.
English here:
London Begins With Costelloe: Paris Runway Official Sits Front Row at London Fashion Week SS27 Opening Day Show
On the opening day of London Fashion Week, Paris Runway Official stepped inside Paul Costelloe’s Spring/Summer 2027 presentation, where Creative Director William Costelloe balanced precision with spontaneity through relaxed tailoring, Irish textiles and a distinctly effortless approach to summer dressing.
London Fashion Week began with a lesson in how heritage can move forward without losing its identity. Paris Runway Official joined William backstage where we interviewed the designer to learn how he prepares for such a big day: the Opening Day and Opening Show of London Fashion Week. From there, the focus shifted entirely to debuting his collection.
For Spring/Summer 2027, Paul Costelloe opened the season with a collection designed entirely in London and built around a deceptively simple idea: beautiful clothes should not have to try too hard.
Under Creative Director William Costelloe, structure met softness, tailoring loosened its grip and the traditions of the Costelloe house were translated for a new season.
For Paris Runway Official, attending on opening day offered an early look at a collection that seemed to set an appropriate tone for London itself—confident in its history, but unwilling to stand still.
The Costelloe Way
Before the first look could fully tell the story, a familiar symbol introduced it.
The presentation opened with the house’s fox, an homage to founder Paul Costelloe, brought to life through hand-drawn animation by Nicholas Costelloe. Moving through the materials, artistry and heritage of the house, the fox became a playful entry point into a collection deeply connected to family and craft.
That heritage appeared again in specially moulded gold buttons bearing the Costelloe family crest and its motto, Cor Unum, Via Una – One Heart, One Way.
It is a phrase that neatly captures what the house calls The Costelloe Way: a commitment to craftsmanship and creativity, even as the clothes themselves become increasingly relaxed.
For William, that ease was essential.
“I wanted this collection to feel chic, effortless and spontaneous. The design and the fabric should do the work… a beautiful garment, a great bag, a silk scarf worn however you want. No rules.”
And SS27 largely followed that instruction.
Tailoring, Without the Formality
Tailoring formed the backbone of the collection, but this wasn’t tailoring designed to feel rigid.
Structured biker jackets, cropped silhouettes and statement coats arrived in 100% Italian textured wools, followed by oversized single and double-breasted jackets with curved lapels, sculpted shoulders and deliberately exaggerated proportions.
High-buttoned jackets were paired with fluid side-pleated shorts, while elongated trousers softened some of the collection’s more architectural shapes.
Then came linen.
Striped linens from Magee appeared across oversized jackets, coordinating shorts and wide-leg pleated trousers, immediately shifting traditional tailoring into something lighter and more appropriate for high summer.
It was that contrast… precision against ease that gave the collection its rhythm.
Crisp blue and white shirting brought oversized curved cuffs, bows and pleated linen shapes, while off-the-shoulder fine-gauge cotton knits in cream, navy and subtle stripes offered a quieter interpretation of summer dressing.
The palette remained similarly disciplined: navy, cornflower blue, cream, white and soft summer neutrals.
Rather than relying on excessive color, Costelloe allowed proportion, cut and fabrication to hold the attention.
The Silk Scarf Returns
One of SS27’s most versatile details was also one of its most classic.
Silk scarves hand-drawn by William Costelloe appeared throughout the collection, framed with bold borders and styled without any obvious rules.
They became headscarves. They were loosely knotted around necks. They were wrapped around handbags.
It was a small styling decision that communicated the wider attitude of the season: luxury could still be polished without becoming overly precious.
Accessories followed the same philosophy.
Oversized clutches, raffia totes and east-west bags in tan and navy accompanied the clothes, while thin double-layered belts brought definition to otherwise fluid silhouettes.
Nothing needed to shout to make itself noticed.
An Irish Thread Runs Through SS27
As the show moved toward its finale, Costelloe turned more explicitly toward Irish craftsmanship.
Textiles from Ferguson’s Irish Linen and Magee appeared across fluid jumpsuits, sculpted dresses, voluminous shorts and summer tailoring, accompanied by signature floral details and textured linen blends.
For a London-made collection from a house with deep Irish roots, the choice felt particularly meaningful.
Heritage wasn’t presented as nostalgia. It existed in the fabric itself… then was cut, shaped and styled for the present.
That distinction may be the most interesting part of William Costelloe’s developing vision for the house.
He doesn’t need to abandon the codes associated with Paul Costelloe to establish something new. Instead, SS27 suggested that evolution can happen through proportion, styling, fabrication and attitude.
A Confident Start to London
On the first day of London Fashion Week, there was something fitting about beginning with a house thinking simultaneously about legacy and what comes next.
The tailoring remained precise, but it could move.
The craftsmanship remained important, but it didn’t feel precious.
Irish textiles sat alongside Italian wool. Traditional shirting met oversized proportions. A family crest appeared on gold buttons while silk scarves were tied however the wearer pleased.
And throughout it all was William Costelloe’s instruction for the season:
No rules.
For Paris Runway Official, it marked the beginning of another London Fashion Week and an opening-day collection that understood effortless dressing doesn’t mean abandoning craftsmanship.
At Paul Costelloe, SS27 made the opposite argument: when the cut, fabric and craft are strong enough, perhaps effortlessness is the ultimate luxury.
Credits:
Writer/Journalist: Brit Olivia @onceuponatimebrit
PR: Paris Runway Official (PRO) @parisrunwayofficial
PRO PR Assistant/Jr Journalist: Gena Aspinall Martin @genaaspinall_martin
Photos:
@parisrunwayofficial PR Assistant Gena Aspinall Martin @genaaspinall_martin
@parisrunwayofficial Envision Media @envisionmediauk
Paul Costelloe Official @paulcostelloeofficial
