Harper's Bazaar Srbija

THE INTENDANT: A wind of change

Pletući tapiseriju političkih intriga, intendanti su stajali kao stubovi kraljeve volje u najudaljenijim delovima carstva. Njihova prisutnost se osećala u mračnim hodnicima i iza pozlaćenih zavesa dvora, gde su šaptom vršili tihi uticaj.

Predstavljajući se na pozadini snegom prekrivenih planinskih vrhova, The Intendant otkriva svoju prvu kolekciju. Dok se turobni zvuci klavira originalne kompozicije ubrzavaju, dva upečatljiva lica lutaju među divljinom i zaleđenim rekama. Debi je predstavljen u tri linije – odeća, obuća i dodaci, svaka zrači raskošnom sofisticiranošću. Srž kolekcije leži u jednostavnosti, gde se različite teksture, smeli potezi boja i visokokvalitetni materijali besprekorno stapaju u elegantne siluete.

Pružajući strukturirane kapute kao i opušteniju večernju odeću, linija odeće crpi svoju paletu iz boja koje se povezuju sa aristokratijom. Kaputi od kože sa krokodilskim reljefom, predstavljeni u crnoj i boji slonovače, daju nosiocu oštru, jasnu formu. Mekše kože u midi suknjama sa plisiranim naborima i uskim, crvenim haljinama stvaraju glatke zavese koje se talasaju oko prirodnih krivina tela. Fluentne, šarene bluze, predstavljene u luksuznim svilama i baršunima, imaju produžene marame koje daju odevnim predmetima veliku svestranost. Linija unosi igru u inače savršene oblike, prikazujući asimetrične izreze i visoke ovratnike kod utilitarnijih komada poput ručno pletenih džempera od vune. Osim toga, The Intendant reinventuje klasični biker stil suknji i jakni od smeđe kože sa krokodilskim reljefom. Raskošni krzneni detalji u odevnim predmetima i dugi šalovi dodaju dodir ekstravagancije kolekciji.

Smelost boje i teksture, kao i kvalitet materijala, nastavlja se u liniji obuće, koju su ručno izradili iskusne zanatlije i koja obuhvata ženske i muške stilove. Osnova kolekcije su čizme od goveđe kože preko kolena i čizme od cavallino kože do kolena, obojene u crveni leopard print sa detaljem fiksnih pertli. Papuče od goveđe kože sa odvojivom krznenom trakom su suptilnije, ali izazivaju isti osećaj samopouzdanja i moći. Zaobljene štikle daju cipelama dramatičan karakter koji dodatno ističe karakteristike nosioca.

Izrađeni sa posebnom pažnjom na detalje, linija dodataka obuhvata različite stilove pozlaćenih komada. Od teksturisanih narukvica do prstenova i minđuša koji podsećaju na talase vode, nakit dodaje element prirode. Okrugle minđuše pozlaćene crnom keramikom stvorene su inovativnom industrijskom tehnikom retko korišćenom u izradi nakita. Linija takođe obuhvata metalne narukvice sa crnom i crvenom leopard cavallino kožom koja se koristi u obući, time tematski povezujući tri linije u koherentnu priču.

Kolekcija crpi inspiraciju iz različitih uticaja. Trouglasti izrezi omogućavaju marame bluza da padnu na ramena nosioca kao kraljevski plašt – omaž raskošnom životnom stilu francuske plemićke klase. Tragovi buntovničkog biker stila mogu se naći u kožnim odevnim predmetima ukrašenim teškim rajsferšlusima i metalnim kopčama. Kombinacija kože i krzna evocira osećaj privlačnosti koji podseća na početak 2000-ih. The Intendant spaja ove naizgled kontrastne ideje i palete u harmoničan prikaz raskoši.

Kada je osnovan brend “The Intendant” , i kako biste opisali vaš pristup estetici?

Brend je osnovan prošlog avgusta, od strane osnivača Lianys Prieto Figueredo. Godinama je imala ideju da stvori proizvod koji bi mogao da predstavi njenu viziju mode. Jedan od njenih prijatelja kasnije ju je upoznao sa Migue Leyva J, koji bi postao kreativni i direktor za sliku brenda. Nakon što su sastavili savršen tim, ono što je počelo kao jednostavan razgovor završilo je kao pravi vetar promene. Kolekcija je predstavljena u tri linije – odeća, obuća i dodaci, pri čemu svaka zrači sofisticiranošću. Srž kolekcije leži u jednostavnosti, gde se različite teksture, krojevi i smeli potezi boja, kao i visokokvalitetni materijali besprekorno stapaju u elegantne siluete. Kombinacija kože i krzna evocira osećaj privlačnosti koji podseća na početak 2000-ih. Novi dodir povezan je sa gotičkim pričama, moderna interpretacija istorijskih slika sličnih Drakuli Brahma Stokera.

Kakav je karakter osobe koja nosi “The Intendant”?

Osoba koja nosi The Intendant je avanturista po prirodi, sa istančanim ukusom ali istovremeno uvek radoznala za ono suprotno, neuspostavljeno. Oni koji veruju da ono što nosite definiše vaš dan, vaše raspoloženje i vaše ciljeve. Nedodirljiva moć hodanja ulicama sa slušalicama na ušima, slušajući svoje guilty pleasures kao da živite u svom sopstvenom univerzumu.

Po vašem mišljenju, koji su osnovni komadi za svakodnevno oblačenje, i koje komade preporučujete iz vaše kolekcije?

Ova kolekcija je vrlo raznovrsna, pa zavisi od vremenskih uslova, vaših ličnih namera, mesta na koje idete, i utiska koji želite da ostavite. Kolekcija ima vremenski, rodno neutralan i sezonski kroj; od kožnih i krznenih kaputa do svilenih odevnih predmeta koji se mogu nositi ili za elegantno veče ili za opušteno popodne. Dodaci vam pružaju mogućnost da podignete bilo koji izgled, bilo da je u pitanju The Intendant izgled ili ne, ali uvek donose ovaj poseban, privlačan i elegantan dodir.

Kako se osećate u vezi sa uniseks modom i komadima koji se mogu nositi i od strane muškaraca i od strane žena?

Ne verujemo u podelu između onoga što se smatra muškom i ženskom odećom. Istovremeno, tvrdimo da nije u tome da žena izgleda muževno ili muškarac ženstveno, to zavisi od svakog pojedinca i njihove ličnosti. Nudimo komade koji se mogu transformisati prema ličnoj želji. Za nas, najvažnije je da nošenjem naše odeće možete biti ko god želite i živeti san koji smo živeli kada smo zamislili kolekciju, kada smo zamislili kako izgledaju intendant muškarac i žena.

Možete li nam reći nešto više o priči iza snimanja ovog editorijala?

Ideja za fotosesiju došla nam je u trenutku kada smo sve komade spojili kako bismo počeli raditi na brendu i kolekciji. Magično, bili smo pozvani na venčanje para koji bi kasnije postali fotograf i filmski reditelj. Venčanje se održalo u malom gradu među najvišim planinama Gruzije. Po našem dolasku shvatili smo da smo na savršenoj lokaciji, i to je bilo i gde je tim potvrđen. To je definitivno bila lokacija iz snova: sneg, hladnoća, zaleđene reke, paleta boja te klasične zimske tišine savršeno bi se uklopila sa našim bojama, teksturama i referencama. Kada smo dobili originalnu muziku, imali smo osećaj kao da se desila eksplozija, i svaki detalj se savršeno uklopio.

Ali najvažniji deo bio je tim. Svi su doleteli iz različitih delova sveta, bili su profesionalni i dali su sve od sebe. Iako smo morali da snimamo na -3 stepena, pod povremenom kišom i tonama snega, njihova predanost i lepota lokacije učinili su sve mogućim.

English here:

Weaving the tapestry of political intrigue, Intendants stood as pillars of the King’s will in farthest corners of the realm. Their presence was felt in the shadowy corridors and behind the gilded curtains of the court, where in whispers they wielded silent power.

Against the backdrop of the snow-embosomed mountain peaks, The Intendant unveils its first collection. As the sombre piano of the original score picks up pace, two striking faces wander amidst wilderness and frozen rivers. The debut is presented in three lines – clothing, shoes, and accessories, each exuding opulent sophistication. The essence of the collection lies in simplicity, where different textures, bold strokes of colour, and high-quality materials seamlessly blend in elegant silhouettes.

Featuring structured outerwear as well as more relaxed evening attire, the clothing line draws its palette from colours associated with aristocracy. Crocodile embossed leather coats, presented in black and ivory, give the wearer a sharp, clear-cut form. Softer leathers of box pleated midi skirts and tight-fitted crimson red dresses create sleek drapes that ripple around the natural curves of the body. Flowing colourful blouses, presented in luxurious silks and velvets, feature elongated scarves that give the garments a great deal of versatility. The line brings playfulness to otherwise perfect forms, showcasing asymmetrical necklines and tall collars of more utilitarian pieces like hand-knit wool sweaters. Furthermore, The Intendant reinvents the classic biker style of skirts and jackets in brown crocodile embossed leather. Lavish furs used in garments and lengthy scarves add a flare of extravagance to the collection.

The boldness of colour and texture, as well as quality of material continues in the shoe line, which was handcrafted by seasoned artisans and features both female and male styles. The staples of the collection are the thigh-high cowhide boots and knee-high cavallino leather boots dyed in red leopard print with the fixed lace-up detail. The cowhide mules with a detachable fur strap are more subdued, but evoke the same sense of confidence and power. The elongated points and curved heels give the shoes a dramatic character that further accentuates the features of the wearer.

Handcrafted with meticulous attention to detail, the line of accessories features various gold-plated styles. From textured cuff bracelets to rings and earrings that resemble ripples of water, the jewellery pieces add the element of nature. Rounded earrings plated with black ceramics were created with an innovative industrial technique rarely ever used in jewellery making. The line also features metal bracelets with black and red leopard cavallino leathers that are used in the shoes, thus thematically tying the three lines together into a cohesive story.

The collection draws from an array of influences. Triangular cuts have the blouse scarves fall on the wearer’s shoulders akin to a royal cloak – an ode to the extravagant lifestyle of the French nobility. Traces of the rebellious biker style can be found in leather garments adorned with heavy zippers and metal snap fasteners. The Intendant blends these seemingly contrasting ideas and palettes into a harmonious display of opulence.

When was the brand “The Intendant” founded, and how would you describe its approach to aesthetics?

The brand was created last August, by the founder Lianys Prieto Figueredo. For many years she had the idea of creating a product that could represent her vision of fashion. One of her friends later introduced her to Migue Leyva J, who would become the Creative and Image Director of the brand. After putting together the perfect team, what started as a simple conversation ended up being the true wind of change. The collection is presented in three lines – clothing, shoes, and accessories, each exuding sophistication. The essence of the collection lies in simplicity, where different textures, cuts and bold strokes of colour, as well as high-quality materials seamlessly blend in elegant silhouettes. The combination of leathers and furs evokes the sense of allure reminiscent of the early 2000s. A novel touch connects with gothic tales, a modern translation of historical images akin to Bram Stoker’s Dracula.

What is the character of the person who wears “The Intendant”?

The person who wears The Intendant is an adventurer by nature, with a refined taste but at the same time always curious about the opposite of themselves, the unestablished. Those who believe that what you wear defines your day, your mood, and your goals. The untouchable power of walking in the streets with your headphones
on, listening to your guilty pleasures as if you are living in your own universe.

In your opinion, what are the staples for everyday dressing, and which pieces do you recommend from your collection?

This collection is very versatile, so it depends on the weather, your personal intentions, the place you are going to, and the impression you wish to make. The collection has a timeless, genderless and a seasonal cut; from leather and fur coats to silk garments that may be worn either for an elegant evening or for a casual afternoon. The accessories offer you the possibility of elevating any look, whether it is The Intendant look or not, but always bring this special, attractive, and elegant touch.

How do you feel about unisex fashion and pieces that can be worn by both men and women?

We do not believe in the divide between what is considered menswear and womenswear. At the same time, we assert that it is not about making a woman look masculine or a man feminine, this depends on each individual and their personality. We offer pieces that can be transformed according to personal desire. For us, the most important is that by wearing our clothes, you can be who you want to be and live the dream that we lived when we conceived the collection, when we imagined how the intendant man and woman looked like.

Can you tell us a bit more about the story behind the shoot?

The idea for the photoshoot came to our mind in the very first moment we put all the pieces together to start working on the brand and the collection. Magically, we were invited to the wedding of the couple who would later be the photographer and the film director. The wedding ceremony took place in a small town amongst the tallest mountains of Georgia. Upon our arrival we realized we were at the perfect location, and that was also where the team got confirmed. It was definitely the dream location: snow, coldness, frozen rivers, the color palette of that classical winter tranquility would work perfectly with our colors, textures, and references. Once we received the original music it felt as if an explosion happened, and every detail fell right into place.

But the most important part was the team. Everyone flew in from different corners of the world, was professional and delivered their best. Despite the fact that we had to shoot in -3 degrees, under occasional rain and tons of snow, their commitment and the beauty of the location made it all possible.

Photography: Valerie Santos
Film Director: Mox Santos
Creative Director & Stylist : Migue Leyva J
Hair & Makeup: Olga Savelyeva
Models: Sofia Z , Maksim R at VProject
Executive Production: Lianys Prieto Figueredo
Production / Logistics : Aliko Shtadler
Original Music: “Subtle” Composed and Recorded by Marioon
DOP: Joie Agtarap
2nd OP: Leo Roxas
Gaffer: Patrick Azurin
Film PostProduction: Nondescript Studios
PR Agency: @marcjuancomunicacion

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